Mushroom hunter stalks edible fungi

Raleigh News & Observer
October 5th, 2012


There’s always a fungus among us… in lawns, gardens and woods.

“Fungi are part of our everyday lives,” said Theresa Augustin, curator of natural areas at Norfolk (Va.) Botanical Garden.

They break down organic matter in the soil, break down toxic materials in contaminated soil into nontoxic components, provide vital medicines like penicillin and provide bubbles in beer and bread.

Fungi and their relationship with plants took center stage recently when Alan Muskat, aka The Mushroom Man, led a foraging walk at the Norfolk botanical garden. He discussed the value of mushrooms for food and medicines.

A mushroom hunter in western North Carolina, where the Asheville Mushroom Club is popular, Muskat is a Princeton University graduate with a degree in philosophy of ecology. His training commits him to spirituality and self-help writings and programs, as seen on his website His website, No Taste Like Home, promotes naturally found foods like edible flowers, greens and leeks, as well as mushrooms through foraging walks, catered dinners, recipes and a blog.

Muskat wants people to experience and appreciate what wild foods are out there, just waiting for perfect pickings.

“No Taste Like Home is not about how to get more,” he said. “It’s about appreciating what we already have.”

For Muskat, it’s about appreciating the diversity of mushrooms found in the forest. Mushrooms are beneficial and far less dangerous than many Americans believe, he insists. To start with, it’s safe to handle or even smell any mushroom – take a sniff and you’ll find they smell like almonds, cucumbers, garlic, raw potatoes, seafood, maple sugar and so on. The matsutake mushroom, known both for its flavor and medicinal value, smells like a cross between red hots and dirty socks, according to his e-book. The jack-o-lantern mushroom glows in the dark.

“Fungophobia aside, out of several thousand types of mushrooms on this continent, only five or six are deadly poisonous,” he said. “However, there are a few dozen more that won’t kill you but will make you wish you were dead.”

In general, Muskat recommends you eat mushrooms cooked, in particular wild ones. Yes, you eat button mushrooms raw, but wild ones won’t necessarily be as forgiving.

Western North Carolina is home to 3,000 types of mushrooms and counting, according to Muskat. The best season for mushrooms runs July-October, although oyster mushrooms are found in winter and morels in April. Lobster mushrooms, which look and taste like lobster, are the most common and popular. Chicken of the woods taste like chicken breast, while honey mushrooms are sweet and tangy, he said; he found and sold a 50-pound chicken of the woods cluster to several restaurants for $150.

For Muskat, mushroom hunting is the best sustainable food shopping there is. When you pick a mushroom, the fungus that created it is still there, he said, so you preserve what nature can create again.

Asked to name his favorite mushroom, he hesitated, but finally said he likes the young reishi mushrooms found in June.

“Just as there is no right or wrong way to garden, there are no good or bad mushrooms,” Muskat said.